Downtown Historic El Paso

Although the area was already settled, El Paso experienced rapid growth as the stage line traffic grew and once the railroad arrived. Many of the historic architectural landmarks we saw on our self-guided walking tour were built in the late 1800's and early 1900's. I've posted three of our favorites.

The Kress Building has some art deco features and is very colorful. S. H. Kress operated it's five-and-ten-cent store at that location from 1938 to 1997 and the building is said to be the company architect's favorite of all the Kress stores. The stained glass photo is of the 25-foot Tiffany dome inside the lobby of the former Paso Del Norte Hotel (now named the Camino Real Hotel). This hotel was the most elegant in it's time and had a roof top ballroom. The third picture shows the ornate work of the Hotel Cortez in Spanish Colonial Revival Style. Enlarge it and you can see the unique feature of portrait heads of conquistadors (look for circles with darkened features). President John F. Kennedy was a guest at the Cortez in June 1963.

Typical Texas Themes

When you think of Texas, what thoughts come to mind (besides the word BIG)? For me, its a couple of things: the Bluebonnet, longhorn steers, and cacti. Well, we've been privileged to see all of these during our travels through Texas.

Starry, Starry Night

Sing along: "The stars at night. . . are big and bright [clap-clap-clap-clap], deep in the heart of Texas." How true. We visited McDonald Observatory, a research unit of the Univ. of Texas, and home of some of the largest telescopes in the world--the Hobby-Eberly with a 433 inch mirror, the Harlan J. Smith at 107 inches, the Otto Struve at 82 inches, and numerous others. Atop Mt. Locke (elevation 6000+) you can find the darkest night skies in the U.S. We attended the Twilight Program and the Star Party, where we were entertained with a tour, interactive educational presentations in an outdoor amphitheater, and awesome views through telescopes. Featured performers for this crystal clear evening were the moon, Saturn, Orion Nebula, and a newly-forming star. But the most magnificent and memorable sight of all was the entire night sky in all of it's splendor. It is rare to get a chance to see a night sky the naked eye can see so clearly sprinkled with millions of sparkling lights.

Big Bend National Park

This park is one of the largest U.S. National Parks (800,000 acres) and yet the least visited. It's name refers to the U-turn the Rio Grande River takes along the park's 118 mile southern Texas border. Santa Elena Canyon (pictured) north wall is in the U.S., while the south canyon wall towers above Mexico. Our drive provided miles and miles of magnificent vistas of varied rock formations in the Chisos Mountain range.

Margaritas in Marathon

On the way back to Alpine after a very full day exploring Big Bend National Park, we stopped over at the White Buffalo Bar in the Gage Hotel, Marathon, Texas. The Gage is a restored 1927 railroad hotel with original pine floors and woodwork and is appointed with authentic furnishings from the Mexican, Native American and Cowboy cultures of Texas. The bar truly has a white buffalo mounted on the wall. Their self-proclaimed world famous margaritas were a quite welcome refreshment.

Western Humor

Call the kids over for this one. . .We found an old log cabin trading post here in Alpine, Texas, where our RV park is, and outside they have "Jack-assic Park". Enlarge the picture to see which "ass" you can choose for your photo. Drew declined, and instead chose the real thing. At least I think it's the real thing--I never learned the difference between a donkey, a mule, and a burro.

Life on a Frontier Military Post

Fort Davis in western Texas has been preserved as one of the best remaining examples of a frontier military post. The first establishment beginning in 1854 was garrisoned by six companies of the U.S. Infantry to fight Indians who attacked travelers and mail carriers. Texas seceded from the Union and Confederate troops occupied the fort until 1862 when Union forces retook possession. In 1867 new buildings began to be constructed and the fort grew to over 100 structures for over 400 soldiers, continuing the mission to safeguard travelers between San Antonio (300 miles East) and El Paso (200 miles West). Most officers got individual quarters that were made of brick, with a stucco-like finish, etched to look like stone (click to enlarge picture and see detail). The enlisted men quarters were large, shared barracks of white brick.

During several intervals throughout the day, there is a sound program (performed by Army Bands) broadcast throughout the grounds that replicate bugle calls, trumpet assemblies, and parade sounds that were part of the military rituals of the day. After we returned to our motor home, cranked up the satellite TV and microwaved dinner, we thought a lot about what it's like to rough it out West!